KEEP YOUR COOL!

Engines with a lot more than stock horsepower [or an air conditioner, or both] need a lot more than stock COOLING! This is how I do it when my customer is serious about protecting his [expensive] high performance V4 Saab engine. This is a "take no prisoners" radiator and fan set-up. I have built a large number of systems just like this one and they really work!

The dual Flex-A-Lite 850 cfm 10" fans are shown above the modified Sonett III radiator. This set up is going into a Saab 95 wagon with a 115 bhp V4 engine, and will ultimately also have an air conditioner unit installed. Note the mount straps [at ends and center] with quarter inch mount bolts welded in place. Flex-A-Lite wants you to mount the fans to the radiator CORE, which is a very bad idea. The strap mount system I use prevents damage to the radiator core, from the weight and constant vibration of the fans.

Here the fans are set in place to check the fit on the rebuilt, re-cored radiator. I snug the fans up as close to the radiator core as I can, though nothing actually quite touches the core.

The assembled unit, ready for installation. The relays and the adjustable thermal switch will be mounted forward on the left inner fender well of the Saab 95. All the wires are shielded and clamped into place. I don't believe in doing a half-assed job on any work I do, and this is a good example.

This is the wiring layout for the dual fan set up. The thermostatic switch will turn on the primary [left] fan at the preset coolant temperature. When the air conditioner compressor turns ON, the secondary [right] fan will come on. The driver can flip a toggle switch to turn on either [or both] fans. Whenever either fan comes on, for whatever reason, the monitor light next to the override switch for that fan will light up. Your V4 engine would LOVE to have a killer cooling system like this in front of it!

YA! NOW VE GO FAST!

Well, this engine is done and ready to drop into the customer's car. It is an over-bored 1700cc Saab V4 that will produce around 115 horsepower. With the proper COOLING SYSTEM this engine will run at 6000 rpm for as long as the owner has the road and the courage to drive it that way.

This little screamer has a big 2 bbl Weber carb, a high torque cam, big valves, big ports, a light flywheel, and is fully balanced to race engine spec's. Saab-o-files will note the lack of a fan pulley on the front cover. Horsepower, guys, equals HEAT, and this sucker will have a BIG radiator with two electric fans.

From the back, you can see the light flywheel, the rebuilt, recalibrated, recurved distributor, and get a peek at the back side of the Weber carburetor. I spend a lot of time modiflying, measuring, fitting all the engine parts and carefully tightening every bolt and nut to the correct torque spec's on my engines. I build every engine as if I intended to use it in one of my own cars. And...YA SURE! I LIKE TO GO FAST!

PISTONEERING, PART 2

Here I'm putting on a connecting rod cap...AND doing it so the numbers on cap and rod are on the same side--a VERY good idea.

I have already checked each of the rod bearings for the correct clearance. Time to "button 'er up."

Being a belt and suspenders sort of guy, I add LOKTITE to the con rod nuts. Cheap insurance, see...

I'm using a recently calibrated precision "clicker" torque wrench to tighten the rod bolts to exactly the correct torque. And yup, I DO check them all twice. Note the new [orange] rear crankshaft seal. You can also just see two of the five new [brass color] water jacket expansion plugs in the block. All the reciprocating parts of this engine have been precision balanced by a local shop that has built over 5000 V8 racing engines. He thinks its FUN to do a little Ford V4!
Engines that we build in this horsepower range idle smoothly, are completely reliable and have amazing performance.

PISTONEERING, PART 1

Here is a nice set of new oversize pistons on rebuilt connecting rods. The four are balanced to 1/10 of a gram--NICE when you expect the engine to "live" at elevated RPM!

Note the new connecting rod bearings and a set of V8 rod bolts and nuts. V8??? Yeah...I get serious when I build a hot V4 engine! This one will produce about 110 horsepower for our customer. He wants to go fast! How about you?

I'm holding the number 3 piston assembly, with the piston ring compressor tool compressing the rings. Note the orange sleeves on the connecting rod bolts.These keep the bolts from damaging the crankshaft journal when the piston is tapped into place.

This is a three handed job. One to tap the piston into the bore, one to guide the rod into place on the crankshaft journal. The third to keep the ring compressor tight. Oh yeah--and the arrow on the piston crown has to face FORWARD as the piston is tapped into place with a wooden hammer handle. Piece 'a cake, mate!

Here I've rotated the engine upside down. I've just pulled one of the protective sleeves off a con rod bolt. Nice to use the right tools for the job, eh? I have 'em all! I've been rebuilding these engines for 42 years and counting. I've probably done about 300 stock, race & rally engines in that time....

FLOPPER STOPPER

The rearmost bottom corners of a Sonett III hood assembly is normally held in place with a bolt. The tilt hood on the Electric Norseman makes that sort of fix just a tad unhandy. My fix is a set of inclined pins--one on each side of the car--welded to the square steel inner hood reinforcement. Each pin--as the hood is lowered and latched at the back, slips over a horizontal pin bolted to the frame. When the hood is latched down, the lower corners of the hood just snug up to the frame of the car, so it all lines up and doesn't flop around.

I got in a bitch of a position to take this under-fender photo, but you can clearly see the inclined pin. As the hood goes DOWN, the pin draws the hood IN, against the frame of the car. I made the bracket--that is bolted to the frame--adjustable, so it is entirely possible to get it "just right".


Two drawings in one....the main drawing shows the tilt hood partly open. No. 2 [in both drawings] is the square steel reinforcement frame inside the 'glass hood skin. You can see where the inclined pin is welded to that frame, and how, when the hood is closed, the pin slides right over the second pin on the strap bolted to the frame of the car.

In the smaller drawing on the right, No. 1 is the fiberglass skin of the car, No. 2 is the square steel reinforcing frame, and No. 3 shows how the fiberglass hood skin is sucked right in against the frame of the car. Thus "gestopping der flopping." Simple fixes are almost always the best.

OPERATING IN A VACUUM

I've never been much for "...oh, I think that's OK..." when it comes to rebuilding distributors. The engines that get my rebuilt distributors don't think much of guesswork, either. This picture shows a special tool that I built, a MightyVac and the data sheet that records exactly what was done to a typical distributor and the results of the rebuild work.

I plot out the curves--shown on the data sheet--for mechanical advance [top] and vacuum advance [bottom]. The mechanical advance curve is checked on the SUN distributor machine. I correct that curve by taking the distributor apart and changing advance springs. Testing it again on the SUN machine tells me if I managed to get the correct springs or not. This can go on....and on....I call it the perverse nature of inanimate objects....

This is the tool I built to test the advance curve of any Bosch vacuum advance unit [the silver "pot" mounted on the tool at the bottom of the photo]. I attach a MightyVac to the vacuum advance unit and start applying vacuum to the advance unit. I read the vacuum applied [on the MightyVac dial] for each degree of advance [shown on the scale at the end of the red tool. I record that on the graph on the data sheet.

Another view of the tool. The scale at the end is calibrated in degrees, taken off a precision protractor. It's a lot of screwing around to make an old, nasty, dirty, tired, worn-out distributor like new again! But the engines my distributors go into think my time was well worth it. A guy told me once he thought I operated in a vacuum. I told him I probably did but it was a precision one.

HAVING A RE-LATCH

This is the OTHER half of the hood latch system for the tilt hood mechanism in the Electric Norseman '73 Sonett. This is the SECOND pin...I built the FIRST pin half an inch too bloody short! The fair Kathleen said something about "...dumb shit...", tho' I didn't hear all of that....

The latch PIN threads into a nut welded to a sleeve, that is in turn welded to a mount plate. The mount plate bolts to the square steel frame for the tilt hood mechanism. The pin is adjustable in all three planes. The view is the passenger side of the hood [with the hood open]. The stock hood door is on the left side of the photo.

The hood pin [top center] just about ready to drop into the latch assembly. The hood ass'y is just about closed. Uhhh...I THINK it is going to reach, now....Photo taken from inside the right fender well.

The pin is in place, locked into the latch assembly. YES! It DID reach! Note that the Fiat latches have a strong "push-up" spring [out of view in this photo] that pushes the hood ass'y up about 1.5 inches when the latch is released. So now the Norseman has a new latch on life.....

TRANSMISSION TOOL TIME

A customer brought me a Saab V4 transmission that had been "completely overhauled" by his mechanic. The "completely overhauled" trans made it 964 miles before it blew. The sucker blew on the freeway. In rush hour traffic. My very unhappy customer said his "wrench" told him that he just used "simple tools" to overhaul transmissions, and "none of that fancy stuff...."

The description of the wrench's "simple tools" sounded like the ones shown here.

This is my Saab factory transmission press. Without it, you can do more damage to a V4 transmission than you fix!

I used EVERY TOOL shown here, along with the factory press to do the overhaul, so the trans will stay together and give great service for thousands and thousands of miles.

When I overhaul a Saab V4 transmission, I do it right the first time, using precision tools and the Saab factory service manual. If your transmission needs an overhaul, make sure your mechanic has the factory press and special tools. If he doesn't, then find a mechanic who does. Don't believe a mechanic who says, "Oh, I don't need a special transmission press or any fancy tools."
Have it done right the first time, or you'll get to pay twice for a rebuild.

SAAB WIPER MOTOR: OF COURSE IT NEEDS REBUILDING!

This is a dead Lucas wiper motor, as used in 1970 and later Saab 95 and 96 cars. It ran very slowly on one speed only, and refused to self park. After close to 40 years of work, it needed some attention.

This motor was actually less grubby than most of the motors I get to rehabilitate.

Now the ancient motor is CLEAN [!] and has a new brush and spring plate installed, and the self-park mechanism has been repaired. Speaking of ancient parts, I built that Heathkit multimeter in 1956. It still works like new!

Here are all the "guts" of the Lucas motor, just before reassembly. The self-park switch is out of sight, mounted on the main motor body.

The moment of truth. The motor is mounted on the test board. Yup, it works on both speeds [at the correct rpm for each speed] and it self parks. Voila!

Looking better than new, Lord Lucas' wiper motor is ready for another 40 years of work...
When you send us your wiper motor, you can expect a quick turnaround time and reliable wipers for years of rainy days to come.

WIPED OUT - Saab V4/99 Windshield Wiper Motors

Why is it that old Saab windshield wipers work "really good"....except when it is raining really hard? Remember, these are LUCAS wiper motors after all....so what did you expect?


These wiper motors are old and tired!
I have been rebuilding these Saab 95/96/97/99 wiper motors for years so I know what it takes to make them operate like new. I always test them on a test board, with the same electrical circuitry found in the car the motor came out of. No surprises that way!

This is a wiper motor on the test board. The wiper is the type used in Sonett II, Sonett V4 and Saab 95 and 96 cars through model year 1969. I test the motor for correct high and low speeds and for self-parking at the correct wiper angle. The test board has the push-pull switch [early cars] and the column-mounted stalk switch [later cars].

This is a Sonett III [or Saab 99] wiper motor on the test board. I wired in the relay and the second [longer] stalk switch for testing this series Lucas motor.

The three Lucas wiper motors used on the Saab 95/96/97/99 cars. The early motor is on the left, the Sonett III and Saab 99 motor in the center, and the Saab 95/96 motor [used from 1970 onward] on the right. The first two are freshly rebuilt and tested. The motor on the right is how they usually look when I get 'em for rebuild---NASTY and DEAD!

Same motors, flip side. I make the nasty, dead motors look--and work--like new. I have rebuilt a TON of these Lucas motors for Saab owners. So quit worrying about the weather when you drive your wee Troll--just send your wiper motor to Ashcraft's Vintage Saab Parts for a thorough rebuild! Then you'll have one less thing to worry about on your Saab!

TILT HOOD TALK

I got a call from a Sonett owner who wanted more detailed dimensions of the hood latch arrangement that I showed in the blog. Truth is, Sonetts are almost KIT CARS and no two Sonetts measure the same in any one dimension. Also, I built this to fit the steel reinforcement "skeleton" that I built and bolted to the underside of the hood ass'y. My next act is to fabricate the lock-down drop link that will bolt to the skeleton. The drop down link fits into the latches and locks the hood down on both sides. Ah...THAT should be interesting!

This is the FOURTH generation of tilt hoods I have done on Sonett III cars. I will add all of this information, with dimensioned drawings, in my book SAAB SONETT III TILT HOOD CONVERSION, available from Ashcraft's Vintage Saab Parts.

Converting a Sonett III hood ass'y to tilt is a MAJOR job, no doubt about it. But to those who have made the conversion, actually being able to easily DO something in the engine bay makes it all very worthwhile. And at a gathering of the Troll Faithful, the tilt-hood Sonett III is the one that will have all the lookers. Guaranteed.

LATCH 'ER DOWN...SONETT HOOD LATCH

A tilt hood requires a fairly interesting latch-down arrangement. I have used several different types, and I think this one, using Fiat latch assemblies, is the best because it's simple. Since you probably don't have any Fiat latches laying around, you can check your local wrecking yard for cars with similar style latches.

You are looking at the RIGHT side of a Sonett III engine bay frame, just behind the coil spring. The 0.125" thick plate bolts to the frame and supports [A] the cross rod [top center], and [B] the Fiat hood latch assembly.


I welded a pair of 5/16" bolts to mount the Fiat hood latch ass'y.


Fiat hood latch set into place on the bolts. I attached the release link [at the bottom of photo] to the actuating arm on the cross rod. Just out of sight at the bottom is an adjustable Heim ball socket end. Most any real auto parts store carries ball socket ends.


This shows the 0.375" diameter cross bar and actuating arm ass'y, in place and attached to the release link on the Fiat latch. I had to weld 2 pieces of rod together to get a cross bar long enough!


Another view of the cross bar, the actuating arm and the release link, attached to the Fiat latch assembly. The angle steel on the right is part of our Drakenparts front frame stiffener kit.


This is the Fiat latch that I mounted on the LEFT side of the engine bay [coil spring is on the left, just out of sight]. The mocked-up clevis and rod shows where the hood release pull rod will go through the front wheel splash panel, into the cabin. The pull link directly below the latch also has an adjustable Heim ball socket end.
I like this installation because it lets me locate the release pull rod in the same mount where the original hood release "T" handle was mounted. Simple and "sanitary"!

Sonett Headlamp Magic

Access is the name of the game with the Electric Norseman. But then there are those pesky pop up headlamps that mount to the hood assembly itself. Hmmmm...I have handled them in a number of ways on S-III tilt hoods but I like this one the best---the headlight assembly is mounted to the frame of the car, NOT the fiberglass hood.

The headlamp up/down mechanism remains in place and in alignment, whether the hood ass'y is open or closed.


This is the pop-ups on the bench, with the actuating cross bar in position. Some of the mounting brackets are also shown.


The right side pop-up bucket, mounted to the frame. I built the mounts so the buckets are adjustable in all three planes. Making them go up and down is GOOD! Making them fit the hood openings at the same time is even BETTER!


Left side bucket ass'y mounted to the frame. How does it work? Like a champ! See--the headlamp buckets don't know they aren't still mounted to the hood!

ELECTRIC NORSEMAN

Yup. It IS an electrified 1973 Sonett. I call it "The Electric Norseman." The 110 volt charging port is where the gas cap ustawuz. I have the battery racks installed for eight big ol' 12 volt electric car buggers. Six in the trunk area and two up front, plus a small "regular" battery to run the wipers, the fans, the lights, and oh, yeah, the air horns.


So everybody asks. "How fast?" and "How far?" I'm hoping for 50mph with a 50 mile range. We'll know that when it's finished. I'm keeping it as LIGHT and SLIPPERY as possible. More on those efforts later---stay tuned.


I've been a Saab "wrench" too long. Can't stand a Sonett without a tilt hood. Note that the regular hood door still works AND that the pop-up headlights remain in place [and alignment] when the hood is tilted forward.
I'm working on the custom hood latching system in my shop this week, so I'll have photos and info soon!

Saab Distributor Rebuild

Saab V4 distributors have a lot of parts inside, as the exploded view drawing shows. Not only do these parts send spark to the correct spark plug at the correct time, they allow the spark to be advanced according to the needs of the engine. This means the engine will run SMOOTH, man! The boxed drawing shows the complete, assembled distributor with cap and wires.

The springs and weights provide the MECHANICAL advance. The vacuum diaphragm provides the VACUUM advance.


This is a typical used distributor as we receive it for rebuilding. SLIMEY! YUK! But part of the yuk is black paint, part is grease and grime. 1698cc Ford V4 engines were painted BLACK, and so were the distributors for those engines. Paint flakes off, crud goes one---makes 'em look UGLY!


Bosch distributors for the V4 Saab cars had no bushing at the drive end, so the center shaft runs in the aluminum case, which "hogs out" to a larger hole. That makes for a sloppy cam at the top, which lets the point gap vary all over the place. As point gap varies, DWELL varies, and ignition TIMING varies. The result? The spark plugs fire at the wrong time, and the engine is NOT happy about it. Here I am using my lathe, boring the distributor for a bushing.



Here's how I setup the lathe for boring the drive end of the distributor for a bushing. I use a special tool to mount the distributor body so it is exactly centered in the lathe for the boring job. It's nice to have the right tool for the job!


I use a special driver to press the bushing into the distributor body. Then I ream the bushing to give the correct clearance for the distributor main shaft.


AHA! The distributor body and new vacuum advance unit. They look better without the SLIME. The reassembly and testing are next. That's when the FUN begins!


I use the SUN distributor test machine to set the mechanical advance curve. I tailor the curve for the projected USE of the engine. For example, professional RACE engines get a different curve than your street engine because they are run consistently from 6-8,000 rpm.

If your engine has over 70,000 miles and you've noticed it doesn't run or idle like it used to, it's likely that your distributor is tired and ready for an overhaul.
Your engine will run much smoother, accelerate better, have better gas mileage.
You'll find it's money well spent!